Where this is
We are on a headland with one road onto it. That is the whole appeal, and it is also the thing to plan for.
Brest is the nearest airport, 1 h 40 by car. Rennes is two hours and usually cheaper. Both have car hire, and you will want a car.
Take the fast train to Guingamp, then thirty minutes by road. There is a taxi rank at the station and one local firm; book it before you travel in July and August. The last bus toward the coast leaves at 18:00 and does not run on Sundays.
The last three kilometers are single track with passing places. Coming from the east, ignore the shorter route your phone suggests through the farm; it is a farm. Parking is free, in front of the house, six spaces plus the verge.
April is cold and empty and, if you like walking, the best month. July and August fill up and the lane gets busy. October is our favorite: warm water, low light, no queue anywhere. From November the wind comes straight off the Channel and we close.
Everything below is a drive or a walk from the gate. Distances are from the front door.
The long-distance coast path runs in both directions along the whole of this shoreline. West to the point is ninety minutes and worth it, with one steep section near the end. East is flatter and finishes at a beach cafe that opens at Easter and closes in September.
Best in the two hours before sunset, when the rock does what it is known for. Park at the second car park rather than the first: the first is closer to the road and further from everything worth walking to.
Produce, cheese, and a fish counter that is worth the drive on its own. It starts early and is finished by one o’clock, so this is a morning, not an afternoon. Parking is easier at the top of the town than beside it.
Ten minutes across; cars stay behind, which is the point of the island. Check the return timetable before you go, because it thins out sharply after September and the last boat is earlier than people expect.
Booked with the grower, paid directly